Be happy, have fun, let your hair down, and be ageless.” anonymous
How can one be anti-aging? It’s an oxymoron. We are all going to age, no matter how anti we might feel. The term certainly has generated some heated debate. At the end of the conversation/debate, it all comes down to a personal attitude about aging. I have always believed that my life would improve with age—and it has—for the most part! But attitude and the value of maturity are not going to fend off those laugh lines.
Maintenance, starting at a young age, will buffer the test of time.
There are those who are blessed with gorgeous skin—peaches and Cream, as they say. Most of us, though, have to work to maintain the flawless look of healthy skin. A routine started early will lead you into a habit of maintenance that will benefit you when those pesky little lines begin to appear.
Even with the utmost care, time and the environment will confront us, and we’ll need reinforcements. The first line of defense should be a qualified dermatologist.
One of the newest trends in skin care is having two dermatologists
The first should specialize in diseases of the skin, from temporary conditions such as dermatitis to more serious forms of skin cancer. This is the Doctor you want to do your full body scan once a year to detect issues before they become much more serious.
A cosmetic dermatologist is a medical doctor who specializes in or focuses on the aesthetic enhancement of the skin (not to be confused with a plastic surgeon). This can include a wide range of treatments, from unwanted blemishes to skin rejuvenation. If you have suffered from years of sun-damaged skin or acne damage, this is the doctor you want to help restore a more youthful skin texture.
Do your homework
Doing your homework before you start interviewing doctors for facial skin rejuvenation is vitally important. Your ultimate goal should be to look refreshed and revitalized, with a bit of a glow. Dr. Ranella Hirsch, MD, sums it up best when she says, “Looking better and looking younger are not synonymous.” She goes on to say, “The people who look great at fifty don’t necessarily look younger than their age. But they have good skin quality. Their skin has been nurtured (maintenance) and protected (sunscreen). It’s radiant and robust, and when I gently pinch it, it still has that spring.” This translates to an overall look of firmness, elasticity, an added glow to the skin, and leaving in place a few visible lines.
Mirror Mirror on the wall
We all know the fable and the looking glass does not lie. We want to look our best and, most importantly, to look like ourselves – but refreshed. This is where the homework comes in. There are many doctors or facial spas that will load you up with filler and Botox, with barely a conversation. Being informed will allow you to ask the right questions to avoid bad filler and the look of an ‘overdone’ procedure. “You do not want to erase every little line and wrinkle,” says Dr. Steve Harris, who is sounding the alarm about “the alienized look of excessive injectables.”You want a doctor who will talk to you about your goals. They’ll examine your facial structure, making suggestions and sometimes discouraging you from others. More doctors are following a newer protocol based on an “understated approach.”
Dr. Julius Few, a Chicago-based plastic surgeon, is at the forefront of this new aesthetic. “More doctors today are embracing an understated approach as the population becomes more aware of the look of overdone faces.” He goes on to say, “The way to achieve good skin quality is not with a single short-term fix; it’s a holistic, long-term approach. I will do multiple treatments to treat all of the skin: Topical skincare addresses the top, lasers treat the middle, and dermal fillers support the underneath.”
Keeping this understated approach in mind, here are a few suggestions to help optimize your skin quality while looking like you!
Maintain your daily and nightly routines
This is the foundation of consistently good skin. If you are a hit-and-miss kinda girl, change your habits and be consistent, especially at night. You need to sleep with a clean face. Danuta Mieloch, a licensed aesthetician and owner of Rescue Spa, who has been caring for complexions in Philadelphia and New York City for over thirty years, says, “A consistent regimen is a common denominator among her chronologically older clients with beautiful skin quality.” She goes on to say, “It’s like working out – if you only go to the gym once a month, you’re not actually going to be in good shape.”
The skin stress battle
Damage to the skin begins to accumulate after age 25. Exposure to UV rays, pollution, and other environmental stressors causes the skin cells to lose the ability to repair themselves. Serums with antioxidants (vitamin C and peptides) can help repair DNA damage. Skincare with adaptogens is also a consideration. These plant-based ingredients help your body respond to stress, which can then help reduce redness, uneven tone, and pore size.
Protecting your Skin Barrier
What is your Skin Barrier? Physically, it protects from external threats such as infectious agents, chemicals, systemic toxicity, and allergens. Internally, the skin helps to maintain homeostasis and protects from enhanced water loss from the body. You need to be kind and gentle with your skin. Advanced skin treatments should be left to the professionals and not used as a DIY project…Like at-home acid peels, microneedling rollers, etc. Doctors have seen a recent surge in irritated complexions. Your skin barrier is beginning to break down when you notice damage, such as itching, tightness, flakiness, and redness. The best remedy is to use only a hydrating cleanser and a simple moisturizer and avoid all active ingredients until symptoms have cleared. And, no more DIY projects.
Wear that Sunscreen…Everyday
According to a recent study published in the journal Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, 80 percent of visible facial aging in Caucasian women—including wrinkles, texture changes, and pigmentation—may be attributed to UV exposure. All skin tones should wear at least SPF 30 and reapply every two hours or after swimming or sweating. Striving for this is worth it to maintain skin quality in the long term. What more do you need to know? I wrote a recently published post, “Did Cleopatra Wear Sunscreen?” In it, I mention the top-performing sunscreens. Please read the post. And please use sunscreen DAILY.
Call in the reinforcements
Okay, you’ve followed all the advice. You have maintained a daily and nightly maintenance program (for years). You buy well-respected and reviewed skin products and see your facialist monthly, but there might come a time when you want a little professional assistance. This would also be the time to do your research. I counted 20 filler companies in a Google search. There are numerous types of lasers available as well. This is also the time to find the right professional for your needs. Interview a few doctors or licensed aestheticians and find out WHAT and WHY they recommend certain procedures.
The Trifecta… Fillers – Botox – Laser
Fillers…
The top three fillers in the U.S. are Juvederm, Radiessa, and Restylane. Juvederm and Restylane offer temporary fillers, which is another area open for discussion with your professional. You might want to consider a temporary filler lasting 9 to 12 months the first time around. Another development in fillers is those lasting up to two + years. Juvederm recently introduced Skinvive, a hydrating, hyaluronic acid serum in injectable form. It’s ideal for those who don’t want to look noticeably taut or plumper but do want to improve skin quality. The skin looks smoother, more radiant, and refreshed about a month after injections.
Botox…
What’s the difference between Botox and fillers? Botox is used to improve your appearance by relaxing muscles that cause wrinkles. Used on frown lines, around the eyes, and around the brows to give a hint of a lift. A friend had a “gummy” smile. This is when too much of your upper gums show when you smile. Her dermatologist injected Botox, and it gave her the most beautiful, natural smile without the gums in full view. Fillers are used to plump or fill in volume. It is common for both procedures to be done at the same time or during follow-up appointments. Interesting note…Juvederm manufactures three top products for the face. Botox, the highly-rated filler Juvederm, and the new Skinvive.
Twenty-first Century Lasers…
Lasers have been the go-to for doctors to improve overall skin quality for a while. “If someone’s skin is really weathered, I always recommend it,” says Dr. Few, who likes the Halo, a device that uses multiple wavelengths to break down unwanted pigment and spur collagen production. Treatments come with a week of downtime (which is the norm), then you can expect to see clearer skin with an added glow and, after about six months, smoother texture.
Two other lasers you can research are CO2 and the newer (erbium) Yag. Both of these lasers have similar results. The Er: Yag has fewer side effects than the CO2. Most dermatologists will have at least two different lasers. Talk with them about the differences and what is best for your skin surface, and your final goals. As a side note…A doctor with proper training and use of lasers should be able to keep your unique characteristics like freckles, birthmarks, and signature moles.
In closing, do your doctor selection homework, conduct your product research, maintain your cleansing and protecting routines, and absolutely say hello to the beautiful woman in the mirror.
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